UPDATE (September 2, 2010):
Before you decide to buy this model, please note that a newer model with a 160 GB drive is now available.
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RATING
I will begin with the rating part so that those who are already familiar with the PS3 line may save a little time.
On balance, I found the PS3 Slim or the ‘PS3 120GB’ to be a worthy addition to the current PS3 line. It comes with several major improvements over its predecessors and the ‘trade offs’ are few and, to most us, insignificant.
This how the new model compares to its predecessors:
PS3 SLIM vs. PS3 80/160GB
+ $100/200 less
+ Smaller
+ More energy efficient
+ More quiet operation
+ Cooler
+ Smaller Cell processor manufactured using a 45-nanometer manufacturing process
+ New, more advanced HDMI 1.3 chipset
+ Easier HDD upgrade
- No Linux support
- No on-off switch in the back
- Push rather than touch ‘On’ and ‘Eject’ buttons
- Not as pretty
= Unchanged game-playing experience
= Same great Blu-ray player
= Same PSP integration
= Same WiFi, Bluetooth built-in
= Same Dualshock 3 rumble, motion sensitive controller
= Same I/O options
The PS3 Slim is a superior product when compared with the PS3 80/160GB models. This relatively inexpensive, feature packed, versatile gaming machine, multimedia hub and outstanding Blu-ray player, earns back the 5th star that I granted the Classic models and I didn’t feel that the PS3 80/160GB models deserved.
Granted, when compared to the PS3 Classic, the PS3 Slim lacks PS2 compatibility, has 2 fewer USB ports and and it lacks media card slots but these shortcomings are offset by the significantly lower price, energy efficiency, larger storage and an updated CPU and HDMI. And, keeping hope alive by feeding it rumors, who knows? Sony just might add PS2 software emulation once it stops manufacturing the PS2 sometime, next year.
MY TEST DRIVE IMPRESSIONS
The good news is that you can do just about everything you did with the PS3 80/160GB models and in the exact same way. During my test ride, I was able to play all the games I brought with me without a problem, the Bluetooth remote controller was recognized immediately and so was the Playstation Eye. Both a USB-dongle full-size wireless keyboard, a USB-connected wired keyboard and Sony’s own Bluetooth mini-keyboard worked as expected. I was able to upload pictures, videos and music from a USB thumb drive and a USB-connected SATA 2.5? hard disk and play them in the same way I do it on my own PS3. The person who allowed me the test drive suggested that I do not sign into the PSN but I have no doubt that the Slim behaves exactly like its predecessors on the PSN, running HOME or while browsing the Net.
The Slim has the exact same ports in the back, the same buttons in front – albeit ‘push’ buttons instead of the ‘touch’ buttons, the same 2 USB ports, comes with the same Dualshock 3 controller, USB cable and Composite AV cable accessories.
The older PS3s weren’t particularly noisy but the Slim seems to be more quiet and, after several hours of play, it didn’t get as warm as my Classic. The ONLY 2 USB ports bother me a little because I brought along the Eye, a USB-wired HDD, a USB keyboard and a dongle-based wireless keyboard. That meant that I had to do a lot of plugging and unplugging when testing. In real life, it’s not so convenient to charge a controller and access more than one USB-connected peripheral. There are third party generic USB hubs (ugly) or PS3-specific port extenders and media hubs that could be used to increase the number of USB ports and bring back the media card slots.
My overall impression of the Slim is “nothing new” at least on surface. The “cooler, quieter, smaller, more energy efficient” you don’t notice while playing a game or watching a movie. The really great news about the Slim is that so many more will be able to afford it and, with a larger user base, more developers will feel more strongly motivated to publish more, better games that all of us will enjoy.
THE SLIM (PS3) vs. THE ‘XBOX 360 ELITE FALL 2009?
This is not meant to be a ‘fan’ statement. I don’t own a Wii but I do own an Xbox 360 so I will be able to discuss PS3 Slim vs. Xbox 360 Elite and, hopefully, it may help a little those undecided between the two or those thinking about getting a PS3 as a second gaming console. Please be aware that, even though I own both consoles and I try to be as objective as possible, I do tend to favor the PS3.
Parity
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- Storage: 120 GB on both systems
- CD, DVD playback: both
- Bluetooth/IR: Bluetooth included with PS3, Infrared remote for Xbox
- Community: PSN/Home memberships are free, Xbox Live includes free Silver membership and one-month Gold subscription, paid thereafter
Advantage PS3 Slim
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- Blu-ray: PS3 only. Blu-ray disks aren’t used for HD movie playback but to deliver games as well. Since they store several times more data than a DVD disk, PS3 games can be ‘bigger’ and be still delivered on one disk, eliminating the need for swapping during gameplay.
- WiFi: included with PS3, available as an add-on for Xbox.
- HDMI 1.3a on PS3 (more vivid colors, better sound) vs. HDMI 1.2 on Xbox
- Controller: wireless on both systems, rumble on both, PS3?s only is motion sensitive, rechargeable batteries built into PS3?s, Xbox rechargeable battery packs available for purchase.
- Integration with a handheld device: PS3 integrates with the PSP, the Xbox offers Zune integration. I would call it ‘advantage PS3? because the Zune integration is limited to file transfers.
- Internal power supply: yes for the Slim, a large external ‘brick’ for the Xbox.
- Ability to upgrade the Hard Disk: the PS3 could use any cheap 2.5? SATA on the market (a 500GB can be had for $90 at the time of this writing and the existing PS3 disk can be recycled to upgrade a laptop or as external storage) without voiding the warranty. I am not aware Xbox HDD upgrades beyond 120GB but, judging by the 120GB upgrade HDD for the smaller models, they are likely to be proprietary, more expensive solutions.
- Slim comes with USB, Ethernet and Composite cables, Xbox has only Composite in the box.
Advantage Xbox 360 Elite Fall 2009
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- Headset: not included with PS3 but any Bluetooth device will work, wired headset included with Xbox Elite.
- Ethernet: PS3 supports Gigabit Ethernet, Xbox is limited to 100BASET-T.
- USB ports: Xbox comes with 3, Slim has only 2.
It seems that a PS3 Slim can be brought to parity with the Xbox 360 Elite by purchasing a Bluetooth headset (possibly for less than $10 and that would make the PS3 a superior choice since the Xbox headset is wired to the controller. For the amount, the PS3 will match and surpass Xbox feature for feature if we don’t factor in exclusive Xbox games or unique Xbox Live features.
To bring the Xbox 360 Elite to parity with the PS3 one would need: a WiFi adapter ($70) and rechargeable batteries ($10). I will not add the various cables to the list because, depending on setup, they may or may not be needed and PS3?s Gigabit Ethernet is not likely to make a difference in anyone’s gaming or movie streaming at this time. $80 would bring the Xbox closer to the PS3 but the Xbox won’t support Blu-ray, does not have a motion sensitive controller, can’t function without an external power supply and, Zune withstanding, it does not integrate with a hand-held gaming device. In addition, continuing the Xbox Live Gold beyond the initial month would be another $30-50 per year for the life of the Elite.
I chose not to factor in the quality of available software because it’s impossible to be even remotely objective when it comes to judge Sony’s exclusives vs. Xbox exclusives. My guess is that, in the end, those who must have Halo will buy a Microsoft Xbox regardless of cost or other features and those who fall in love with Little Big Planet or Uncharted have no choice but a Sony PS3. The general consensus is that, at this time, the PS3 has the superior hardware (see above) while the Xbox has an advantage in exclusive titles and some exclusive content. In addition, many multiplatform games are developed on the Xbox first and then ported to the PS3. That can make the Xbox versions appear to be superior and, more importantly, the PS3 versions do not always take full advantage of PS3s superior hardware. This seems to be less the case as developers are becoming more familiar with the PS3 platform – the software gap, if there is one at this time, it is closing fast.
Update on PS3 vs Xbox 360 (July 2010)
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Quite a bit has happened since I posted this review and almost all of it was good news from a user’s point of view. Microsoft got ‘the message’ and there is a new, slimmer, quieter Xbox with a larger but still proprietary disc and with built-in Wi-Fi, plus a proprietary Kinect port. Sony, on the other hand, has launched a premium ‘pay’ service on the PSN featuring Hulu ‘plus’ and maybe other goodies to be added in the future but the ‘free’ PSN service is still superior to its ‘free’ Xbox rival, in my view.
So, revisiting the comparisons above, the PS3 still holds the advantage when it comes to Blu-ray and motion-sensitive controllers. The PS3 120GB’s drive while smaller is still easily upgradeable while the Xbox is not (my 120GB Slim got its 500GB upgrade within days of purchase at almost no cost given that I was able to reuse the 120GB drive for other purposes).
ESSENTIAL ADD-ONS AND ACCESSORIES
For those who decided that the PS3 Slim is what they wanted, the list below may help them budget for the extra purchases they may want to consider. There are surprisingly few extra a PS3 REALLY needs and I listed them in order from what I view as the more to the less important or needed. Those at the top are, in my view, more ‘essential’ than the ones at the bottom, but with the exception of the HDMI cable which is a must have for an HD TV set, you could easily do without the rest or get them later if you really feel that you want them.
- HDMI CABLE – It’s a must for anyone who already has an HD TV. It’s not included in the box and I am not going to provide a link because there are dozens of vendors at Amazon, competing and that’s a good thing because one can be had for only a few dollars. Just make sure it’s HDMI 1.3. A ‘High-Speed’ rating is not necessarily a plus if the cable you need is only 3 ft. or 6 ft. long. All HDMI 1.3 cables should be High-Speed rated and only High-Speed cables support 1080p resolutions. At these lengths, paying a premium for ‘quality’ can’t be justified because the odds for the digital signal to be misinterpreted are close to non-existent.
- REMOTE CONTROL – Unless your HD TV supports CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) which allows for the user to command and control multiple CEC-enabled boxes with one remote control and for CEC capable devices to command and control each other, Sony PlayStation 3 Blu-ray Disc Remote could make the operation of the PS3 a lot easier when you are not playing a game. It’s optimized for movie viewing but XMB navigation, running slide shows and shopping at the PSN store are easier with the remote control because it does not need two hands to be operated. In fact, it can be operated with one thumb.
- WIRELESS HEADSET – This is the one important component that the Elite bundle includes (theirs is wired) and the PS3 does not. Any Bluetooth headset would do which is why I am not going to insert a link to Sony’s product or to anyone else’s.
- SECOND DUALSHOCK 3 CONTROLLER – Even if you play solo only, a second controller may be charging while the other is in use.
- USB PORT EXTENDER – Again, there are many competing offers. I would prefer one where the ports are powered. Some singing games may come with their own extenders.
- PS3 EYE CAMERA – This is not exactly a ‘must have’ but it’s definitely a ‘very nice to have’ as the Eye is not only a camera but also a stereo microphone – depending on your needs, it may eliminate the need for a headset. I obtained mine cheaply, with a used copy of Eye of Judgment. If you decide to go that route, be VERY careful and ensure that the camera is indeed included before your order.
- MEDIA CARD READERS – They would plug into a USB port and will allow your PS3 to read/write to Media/Multimedia/Secure Digital, Memory Stick (PRO), Compact Flash, or XD Picture cards. They can be had for anything from $1 to $20.
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Note 1: MY OWN BIAS
We own a ‘Classic’ 60GB PS3, currently upgraded to 320GB, DualShock 3 and complemented with various peripherals: PS3 Eye, Logitech Driving Force GT Racing Wheel, Bluetooth keyboard attachment, headset… etc. We also own an Xbox 360 Elite, 3 PSP 3000?s (got 3 kids) and a second-hand DS. We used to have a PS2 but we sold it shortly after purchasing the PS3. I’ve helped several of my neighbors purchase, install and upgrade their own PS3?s. I am posting this review because I had the opportunity to test drive a PS3 Slim for several hours a couple of nights before the official launch – someone I know works at a store that sells gaming consoles.
Speaking for myself only, I tend to favor the PS3 for several reasons and here they are:
- WiFi – This is a major convenience for me. I hate ‘wires’ and the PS3 has the WiFi built in and it’s VERY easy to set up.
- Blu-ray – I was an early adopter and I haven’t bought ‘new’ DVDs in more than a year. Having the PS3 doubling up as a Blu-ray player is another major convenience for me.
- HDD Storage upgrade – I don’t believe that 120GB is sufficient these days and our console has exceeded the 120GB threshold already after lots of downloaded games and movies and transferring thousands of photos and songs to it. A PS3 can be easily and inexpensively upgraded to 500GB today and this is a big plus.
- Little Big Planet – It’s a Sony exclusive and my kids just love this game. They would probably run away and resettle with a family that has LBP if I got rid of the PS3.
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Note 2: THE SLIM’S SPECS AND FEATURES
- 45nm, 7-core Cell processor CPU
- RSX – Based on NV47 Chip (Nvidia GeForce 7800 Architecture) for graphics
- Updated HDMI chipset (bitstreams hi-res DTS-HD, TrueHD)
- 256MB XDR Main RAM and 256MB GDDR3 VRAM memory
- 120GB Hard disk – 2.5? SATA – can be replaced with any 2.5? SATA and a compatible 500GB HDD can be had for about $90 at the time I write this review
- Blu-ray 2.0 player (possibly still the best) that also plays DVDs and CDs
- Ethernet 10/100/1000Base-T wired networking
- WiFi 802.11 b/g (from 10 Mbps up to 54 Mbps) – wireless networking I couldn’t live without
- Bluetooth 2.0 for game controller, headsets, keyboards and so on
- Video resolution up to 1080p
- Audio supported: LPCM 7.1, Dolby Digital, Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD, DTS, DTS-HD, AAC
- Other outputs: HDMI, Optical, Composite AV
- Other I/O: 2 High-speed USB 2.0 ports
- Power: dual 120/240V
- Power consumption: 250W
- Weight: about 7 lbs.
- Dimensions: about 12? x 2.5? x 12? (my measurements)
- Included controller: DUALSHOCK 3
- Included cables: USB and Composite AV, power chord
Additional features:
- Displays JPEG stills.
- Multi-featured, surprisingly good slide show functionality.
- Plays MPEG-1, MPEG-2, and MPEG-4/h.264 videos.
- Bitstreams DTS-HD and Dolby TrueHD to receiver
- Upconverts DVDs to 1080p over HDMI
- XMB in-game access.
- In-game and off-game text and voice chat (headset, keyboard or Eye are needed).
- Video chat with up to six people (PlayStation Eye is required)
- Can discover media servers on the home network and stream content from any DLNA-compliant device.
- Web browser (still has some usability and compatibility issues) but plays YouTube well.
- Google Web search.
- Remote play on a PSP connected to any wireless access point – play music, videos, show pics, turn on the PS3 remotely if on stand-by
- Upload PSP games purchased from the PSN Store to the PSP.
- Online software updates improve PS3 functionality and keep the Blu-ray player features current.
- Online third party updates.
- Online gameplay.
- Download and play PS3 games and demos from the PSN store.
- Download and play PSOne games.
- Download and play movies and shows from the PSN store.
- Supports HDMI Consumer Electronic Control (HDMI-CEC) – control the Slim through the remote of any CEC-enabled TV such as a Bravia.
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Note 3: HDD UPGRADE
If you are on the upgrade path, less than $90 would buy you a 500GB drive. The one that I tested would be the 500GB Scorpio Blue Mobile Sata 5400RPM 8MB 2.5IN which replaced my laptop’s 60GB drive and a friend’s 80GB PS3 HDD. The nice thing about upgrading your disk is that you are also going to be left with a perfectly good 80GB or $160GB or 120GB drive which you can place into a cheap enclosure, and the StarTech AT2510U2 InfoSafe 2.5-Inch USB/SATA Hard Drive Enclosure worked for me. After I upgraded my own console to 320Gb, I used the free leftover drive as a backup device for family photos.
Rating: 5 / 5
Summary [8.5 out of 10]
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The Logitech Driving Force GT PS3 Wheel is an excellent driving wheel with a good build quality at a solid price point that will satisfy any casual or avid racer. Unfortunately not every game makes correct or full use of driving wheels, but the ones that do (e.g. Gran Turismo 5) create a surreal driving experience that will satisfy any driving fan.
For the purist that must reproduce the true racing experience in his or her house, we would still suggest the Logitech G25; it is, however, more than twice the price of the Driving Force GT.
What’s in the Box?
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It’s a good sized box, about the size of a Logitech 2.1 PC speaker package. As shown on the box there was an instruction booklet, pedals and wheel (with integrated shifter).
What I was really surprised to find in the box, and it might have been a toss-in for some promotion because I don’t see it mentioned on Logitech’s site, was a full copy of Gran Turismo 5: Prologue. If you already have it, then use this copy (if you get one) as a gift I suppose. If you didn’t have a copy, you will be so freaking happy they included one, it does the wheel justice while other games don’t:
After spending time with this wheel and especially Gran Turismo 5, I would have to say that you cannot review a driving wheel, or al teast this driving wheel, without having a copy of Gran Turismo 5 to test with. The experience is so much better with GT than it is with other “arcade” racers that it’s a night-and-day difference. More on that later though under “Driving Experience”.
For anyone that has used a force-feedback wheel in the past 10 years, I think the form factor of these things has always been the same. A life-sized steering wheel attached to a tapered base that is fastened to a table or desk of some kind using clamps or grips of some kind; this is very similar:
As you can see the steering wheel reproduces all of the 17 or so buttons you find on a standard PS3 controller. The red wheel and “enter” button on the bottom right can be used for navigation and confirmation as well as in-game adjustments for games that support it (like Gran Turismo 5).
I’m not sure what the split-circle +/- does on the bottom left, I never got it to really do anything in any games.
In addition to the full-sized wheel the base unit includes an integrated shifter. The shifter doesn’t have much play up or down as it behaves more like those auto-shifters (flappers) you find on some higher end cars that let you drive in automatic or shift automatically if you want. It just clicks up or down as you are driving and a spring re-centers it when you let go. It doesn’t click “up” or “down” into position like a gear shifter, it’s more of a toggle action.
Of course you have your pedal plate. I’m a size 11.5? and the plate felt like a nice size, sturdy, good resistence on the brake and gas and my foot never fell off it or slipped off. It’s a perfect size.
I did find that the pedals stood upright a bit too vertical, so sitting in a chair and playing, my foot was always cocked up when I was off the gas or break. This made switching from gas to brake with 1 foot uneasy for me and I ended up driving with both feet instead; I just couldn’t flip from gas and then cock my foot up enough to clear the brake as I moved it over to the left to push it back down. What ended up happening is that the side of my foot would hit the break as I moved my foot to the left and push the whole pedal pad over.
I would also point out that the pedal pad would be perfect on carpet because it integrates a retractable spike-strip on the bottom of it that can click out, and dig into the carpet. On hard/wood floors like I have, it was moving around a little bit, so I secured it by pushing it up against the table you see in the picture above. I believe there are little rubber feet on it but they don’t do as good a job stopping it from moving as the carpet-spike-strip would if it was on carpet.
Keep that in mind if you are on a hard floor and don’t have a way to secure it in place, I’m sure putting it on a mat on your hard floor would work fine (like a yoga mat) or something else that will cause it to stay put.
Hooking it all Up
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As with all racing wheels since the dawn of mankind, you fasten the wheel base that everything hooks to, to a table or desk using clamps that tighten to hold it in place:
If you don’t have a table or desk that this can be fastened to, you will need to get one if you plan on using this. I lucked out in that our coffee table had a lip on it that I could hook to, but I have a friend that has a low coffee table that he hooked the wheel to that provides a lack-luster driving experience as he is bent over the wheel.
Someone else that came over to try the wheel out didn’t have a coffee table at all in front of his TV and was wondering how he would use it; my only comment to him is that he couldn’t unless he had something to hook it to.
The base unit is front-heavy with the steering wheel; meaning if you didn’t secure it to the table, it would happily fall steering-wheel-first off the table onto the ground. You can’t just set it on something and use it; it needs to be clamped down.
Also you will want it attached to something sturdy because you can get to fighting with the force-feedback and turning the wheel and moving quite a bit while racing. This could move whatever you have the wheel attached to in more vibrant racing moments; something I did with our coffee table because it has wheels on it.
For example, if you tried to hook this to a bar stool or something, I don’t think that would work out really well.
After getting the base-unit in place, everything plugs to it into sockets in the back of the base-unit, right behind the shifter. You will plug in:
* Power Adapter
* Pedal Plate
* PS3
The wire length between all 3 of these things is pretty liberal, so unless you are trying to spread yourself across your entire living room you should be OK.
The shortest connection is from the pedal plate to the wheel (understandably, since the two will always be near each other) and uses what looks like an old-school COM port connection.
In what I consider the most important connection, the base-unit to the PS3, Logitech was pretty generous. You have a 10? or 11? USB cable to connect to your PS3. In the picture above I am about 10? from the PS3 and that is about as far away as I am going to get without a USB extender.
The power adapter also had a generous lead on it, which I plugged into the wall behind me, about a 5? run total and there was still plenty of slack on that cable.
For those curious, the power adapter is one of those “huge bricks that I have to plug in and will cover a bunch of other plugs” types. The prongs themselves are set high enough on the brick though, that if you are plugging into a wall socket, you can use the top or bottom socket without blocking the other one.
If you are using it on a power strip, I’d suggest making it the last plug off the power strip so it hangs off and doesn’t block other plugs cause it will. It’s a bit bigger than a deck of cards or there-abouts in size.
Build Quality
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My gut reaction out of the box was “meh” honestly. I have used force-feedback wheels in the past and only once can I remember being impressed with the non-plastic build quality.
However, after using the wheel for a while and playing quite a few games with it, I came to find the build quality above-average. The wheel is solid feeling, it’s got a leather-wrap feel to it, the force-feedback is dynamic and consistent and the pedals were sturdy and performed well. If you want to turn the force-feedback up, the wheel can really wrestle with you, so if you like a powerful experience, you can certainly get it with this wheel.
The pedals didn’t feel amazing to me out of the box, but playing with them I didn’t have any complaints, besides the comment above about how vertical the pedals stand.
The gas is easy to depress but sping-loaded in a firm fashion to make it somewhat hard to push down with your hands. And the brake is firmly spring loaded, but in a smooth, shock-absorber way that makes it satisfying to use and feels more like a real car.
The shifter does feel a little rinky-dink because it’s just a plastic knob on a metal pole that is attached to a spring-loaded click-shift mechanism.If you want that tactile feedback, you’ll want to get the Logitech G25 Racing Wheel.
If you are a build-quality nut and don’t mind paying for you, you really should be looking at the Logitech G25 Racing Wheel; that’s more of a direct race-car replica, complete with metal parts, full shifter, clutch, etc. But it’s more than twice the price of this wheel (just a warning).
Driving Experience
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First a list of the games we tried (in alphabetical order):
* Burnout Paradise
* Dirt
* Gran Turismo 5: Prologue
* Grid
* MotorStorm
* Nascar ’09
The “awesomeness” of this wheel (and I imagine all racing wheels) depends 100%, completely on how well the game you are playing implements it.
Let that above statement sink in… you could spent $900 on a wheel, and if the game you are playing doesn’t have a tuned wheel experience, you will likely go back to using a controller.
Gran Turismo 5 is excellent, Grid and Dirt are bad; even though there are a ton of adjustments for the wheel, I wasn’t able to find a combination of settings for those two games that made them playable for me with the wheel… there is a certain amount of arcadey lag that occurs between the wheel and what your car does that screws you up in tight spots, sharp turns, etc.
You spend a lot of time spinning out and then spinning out more as you try and get straightened out on the track.
Your mileage may vary and your tollerance may vary, but this was a comment another friend of mine with the Logitech G25 Racing Wheel echoed about those two games as well. Some of the bad controls can lead to road-rage though if you are expecting a perfect-simulation-experience from all games:
I tried this wheel out, along with my wife, our friends and their children. I didn’t see anyone “not get it”, it’s pretty straight forward and accessible to anyone that has driven before. Although the children seemed to pick it up no problem and like the idea that they were racing “for real”.
While the wheel does expand the experience of driving, especially if you stick yourself in “first person” perspective in the cockpit of the cars of some of these games, bad response from some games can ruin that experience just as fast.
Conclusion
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After some time with this wheel and quite a few titles, I think I’ve come to the conclusion that if you are a Gran Turismo fan/junkie, and plan on getting it, this wheel or one of Logitech’s others is a must-get along with the game.
If you just like racing games, especially more arcadey ones, you should probably skip getting a force-feedback wheel. The wheels themselves are excellent, but they are only as good as their weakest link. If the game you are playing wasn’t tuned for the wheel you are just going to end up going back to the default PS3 controller after a while anyway so you can win races.
It’s unfortunate, but with a lot of the problem titles, I didn’t find playing with the 20 settings or so for force-feedback in most of them helped at all. Some I couldn’t even see a difference between a 1/10 or a 10/10 “Force Feedback” setting.
Areas of Improvement
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As with all our reviews, we don’t like to criticize without providing suggestions on how to improve the product, so here are our suggestions for the Logitech Driving Force GT PS3 Wheel:
* Any of the following individually (realizing that all of them together would increase the price too high):
o A clutch on the pedal pad
o Gear flippers on the wheel for easy shifting
o A Shifter that included two well-defined gears and not the small-range-of-motion up/down click-shifter that is on there now so you feel cooler throwing it into gears
* Wireless connection to the PS3 (Is that possible? I don’t know how much data is being transfered from the wheel to the PS3)
* A chart or guide that has “Best suggested settings” for the most popular driving games. You can spend a lot of time messing with the Force Feedback settings for different driving games. It would be nice to have “recommended” settings out of the box since the sampling of popular driving games on the PS3 is so small, it shouldn’t be hard to do this.
* MINOR: Easier to reach Start button (for pausing) on the wheel. The phone rang while I was playing a few times and I fumbled and crashed 3 times trying to pause the game. I can’t imagine getting interrupted while driving is an uncommon thing for a video game. Would have been nice.
* SUPER-MINOR: Working horn button, there is a horn button in the middle, and it lights up and depresses, but none of the games I tried it on did anything. This is super minor, but I like honking a lot before smashing into people.
Rating: 4 / 5